12 questions you should ask before signing a roofing contract

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Homeowner roofing job checklist

Business Questions:

Do you have general liability insurance and would you provide me your carrier name and policy number so I can verify your policy?

Before signing a contract, call the insurance carrier (not the agent) and verify the contractor’s policy status is active. Because roofing insurance is one of the more expensive types of commercial insurance, many discount roofing companies may provide paperwork for a lapsed policy, fraudulent paperwork, or do not carry insurance at all.

What financial penalties are included in your contract if I decide to cancel?

Whenever you sign a contract, you should abide by its terms; however, there are legitimate reasons to cancel. It is critical to read the contract carefully to verify it is consistent with what the salesperson has stated. A common tactic is to get a homeowner to sign a contract, sometimes calling it an estimate, and then have large cancellation penalties included.

If I sign your contract, how long do I have to cancel?

Under Texas law, if you sign a contract anywhere other than the roofer’s office, the seller must advise you orally and in writing that you have a right to cancel the sale within three days. He or she must also give you a contract or receipt stating the date of the sale, the name and address of the merchant, and a statement of your right to cancel the contract which includes the address where you send your cancellation notice.

Quality/Process Questions:

Who do you buy your materials from and how will they get delivered?

Where your contractor buys their materials is very important. We recommend having their supplier deliver the materials to your residence, guaranteeing that it is coming from a trusted source. If necessary, offer to pay the delivery fee, which is usually only about $50. This is a small price to pay to ensure you will get reliable materials. Think of it as very cheap “insurance” to make sure your thousands of dollars worth of roofing materials will not be old or defective.

Do you remove all the old underlayment?

Often, even reputable roofers will take this shortcut, especially if multiple layers of old felt exist, because removing it costs more in labor.

You may also hear, “we leave it because it provides extra waterproofing, wouldn’t you want that?” While technically it will provide an extra layer of waterproofing, you want to ensure it is removed so the decking is properly inspected. This is one of the primary reasons we recommend you stay home during your roof installation.

Do you visually inspect the deck for any rotted areas?

Most roofs over five years old will have some rotted decking around the eaves, roof penetrations, and satellite dish. If the felt
is not removed the decking cannot be properly inspected. You may hear “our roofers are experts and they can tell by walking the roof if there is bad decking”. This is a half truth. Yes, in many cases, you can detect bad decking when you walk on it, but most rotted decking is on the eaves (which are dangerous to walk on) and around penetrations and satellite dishes, which are cumbersome to walk on. This is one of the most critical steps in ensuring that you are getting a well installed roof.

If you discover rotted decking, how much do you charge for those repairs?

The industry average is $60-$75 per 4×8 sheet of OSB, covering 32 sq. ft. For example, if two 2-ft. by 4-ft. areas are damaged, then only one 4×8 sheet is required and should only cost an additional $60-$75.

Do you install waterproofing membrane around roof penetrations?

Most leaks occur around roof penetrations (the vents and pipes sticking out of the rooftop). Adequately waterproofing these areas is critical to ensuring that the roof is leak-proof. Using a self adhering waterproofing product (commonly called Ice and Water Shield) is the most proactive way to prevent leaks.

How often do your installation crews pop lines?

The installation crew should pop a chalk line when a section of roof is longer than 15 ft (or 10 ft if the pitch is steep). This ensures shingles are installed in a straight line and there is no buckling effect or improper reveal width.

What is the width of your shingle reveal?

“Reveal” is the amount of exposed shingle width that is not covered by the next row of shingles. The standard is 5 inches, except on low slope roofs (lower than 3/12), to deter shingle “lifting” during windy conditions. Sometimes roofers will do a 6 inch reveal, which will save them hundreds of dollars in materials.

How do you seal flashing and vents?

All flashing and vents should be sealed with an elastomeric polyurethane sealant. BASF NP1 is more expensive but the best quality. Discount roofers often use budget sealant, if any at all.

Are you including specialty shingles (starter and ridge cap shingles) in my bid?

While regular field shingles can be used for starters and as ridge caps, it is not recommended. Specialty shingles (starter and ridge cap shingles) are specifically designed for these areas and contribute to the integrity and longevity of your roof.

Homeowner Roof buying guide